What are some items that my puppy will need in his new home?
Here are some basics that you will need for your new puppy.
Food and water dishes
Crate (to be replaced by a bigger one as he grows)
Puppy house training pads or newspaper
Bedding (at least two sets)
Soft, adjustable collar (and new ones as he grows)
At least one 4 to 6 foot leash, leather or webbing
At least 5-6 safe chew toys (the more the better-toys can be rotated)
A soft bristle brush
A sturdy metal comb
Gentle puppy shampoo (do not use human shampoo)
Good quality dog nail trimmer
Which toys are safe?
Assume that your puppy is going to do his best to rip the object apart and swallow whatever pieces he can. Do
not give him items with swallowable parts that might be harmful.
Some of the best items:
Artificial bones made of hard nylon
Balls and chew toys made of hard rubber. Many of these are designed to hide bits of kibble in and can entertain
your pup for hours.
Knots of thick rope
Artificial bones made of rawhide particles pressed together, or of other material designed to be safely swallowed.
What does socializing a puppy mean?
From 7 weeks to 4 months of age, your puppy goes through a socialization period that permanently shapes his
future personality and how he will react to things in his environment as an adult. Gently exposing him to a wide
variety of people, places, and situations now makes a huge, permanent difference. Proper socialization can
prevent a dog from being fearful of children, for example, or of riding in a car, and it will help him develop into a
well-mannered, happy companion.
How do I housebreak my puppy?
With patience, diligence, and a calm, authoritative manner, you can teach your dog exactly where he should
eliminate and where he should not.
#1 The key to success is simple: Timing is everything.
#2 Take your puppy outside immediately after eating, playing or napping (approximately every two hours).
Keeping this rigid schedule will prevent him from making mistakes in the house.
FACT: Fifteen minutes after your puppy eats or plays vigorously, he will need to eliminate. As he gets older he
will be able to wait longer. An adult dog eliminates three or four times a day and will learn to hold it--within
TIP: Always feed and water your puppy at the same time every day. If he eats at regular intervals, he will relieve
himself at regular intervals, too.
#3 A puppy’s behavior will let you know when he needs to eliminate. If he whines, paces, or runs in a circle, grab
the leash and get out the door.
TIP: Even if you’re in a hurry, don’t bring the puppy back inside as soon as he does his business. If you do, he
will learn that once he eliminates, the fun walk is over and he will start to “hold it” for longer periods.
#4 Mistakes happen. If you catch your puppy eliminating in the house, correct him with a firm “No”. Take him for
a walk and praise him lavishly when he does his business outside.
TIP: If you find that your dog eliminated in the house when you were not’t looking, Do Not punish him. Only
punish and reward your puppy for the bad and good acts he performs while you are watching.
What is paper training?
If you do not have easy access to the outdoors, you may want to consider paper training your puppy.
#1 Choose an enclosed area in the kitchen or bathroom (any room with a floor that is easy to clean) and cover
the entire floor first with a vinyl shower curtain and then with newspaper or puppy house-breaking pads.
#2 When the puppy eliminates, replace the dirty paper or pads with clean.
#3 In a few days, take away some of the paper or pads and leave part of the floor bare. If he eliminates on the
bare floor in front of you, correct him gently, and put him on the paper and praise him.
#4 Gradually remove more and more paper until you have just a small spot for elimination. Then, as he learns to
hold it longer, take him outside three or four times a day to conclude his house training.
Should I consider crate training my puppy?
Contrary to what you may think, dogs like crates since they mimic the close quarters of a wolf’s den, so never
think that crating you dog is cruel or unusual. It is what the pros do. Here’s how crate training simplifies
housebreaking and gives the puppy the much needed room of his own (especially if there are young children in
Crating your dog several times a day is an excellent way to housebreak him. This is because dogs will try not to
soil their “home”.
Line the crate with blankets so make it cozy.
Use the crate for naps, nighttime slumber, and quiet time breaks for the puppy from family chaos.
Buy a well-ventilated crate, one large enough for him to stand up, lie down, and turn around.
Every time you take the puppy out of the crate, take him for a walk to eliminate.
Never leave a puppy in his crate all day. He needs several bathroom breaks and play and feeding times. Even
though he won’t soil his sleeping area, if he is there for extremely long stretches, he just might. (He can’t help it)
and if he does it’s because his owner has neglected his responsibility, not because the dog has misbehaved.
Never use a crate as punishment. It should always be a haven for your pup, not a jail cell.
What’s love got to do with it?
Let’s consider the foremost pitfall of canine feeding. Keeping your growing pup properly nourished is simple:
Serve sensibly sized portions of high quality chow, avoid feeding “people food” and keep snacks to a minimum.
In practice, this is easier said than done.
The doleful gaze of a begging dog can be irresistible. This is no accident. During his long partnership with man,
the dog has perfected cunning methods of exploiting the human neurosis that associates food with affection.
In prehistoric times semi-domesticated canines first cultivated human beings as a food provider. As the two
species grew closer, dogs modified begging behaviors to maximize results: The more pathetic a dog seemed,
the more scraps were tossed his way. Dogs have since refined this approach into a low-risk, high-reward
It’s a deceptive way to hunt, utilizing the appearance of helplessness rather than ferocity, but don’t be fooled:
Begging is not an emotional crisis or a test of your love. It’s what scientists might call an evolutionary survival
strategy, or what the rest of us might call a scam. Allowing your dog to “guilt” you into overfeeding him, or
serving him a steady diet of table scraps in a misguided show of affection, can have harmful or even fatal results.
So don’t take it personally when the little con artist under the table goes into the old whimper-wheedle- and-
whine routine. Simply ignore it, otherwise, you risk loving your pup to death.
I do love my puppy, so what should I do about food and nutrition?
Feed a high-quality premium puppy food. Once a brand or formula is chosen, stick with it. Sudden changes in
food may cause digestion problems.
Provide nutritious low-fat, low sodium treats. Whenever training with treats, keep the treat as small as possible.
Use food and water bowls that are of sufficient heft to prevent your dog from tipping them over
Most dogs finish meals quickly. To discourage picky habits, feed at regular times in regular amounts and don’t
leave food down for more than 10-20 minutes.
Fruit and raw vegetables make fine snacks of a grown dog. Small portions of carrot, broccoli or apple chunks
are healthful low-calorie treats that most dogs love. Do not feed grapes!
Fresh water should be available at all times. Wash the water bowl daily to avoid the build up of bacteria.
How often should I groom my schnauzer?
To look like a schnauzer, the dog needs to be groomed regularly. You can learn to do it or you can take him to a
professional groomer. Either way, it will be easier if you follow a grooming routine. Through regular brushing,
combing, and eye, ear, and dental care, you will find that the road to good health is much smoother. By
establishing a grooming routine during puppy hood, he will become used to being touched and will not put up
too much fuss when professionally groomed.
At first keep the grooming sessions short.
Teach your pup to open his mouth so you can look at his teeth, and praise him when he complies. Fondle his
ears and paws. Dogs are especially sensitive to these areas, so they need to learn that handling them can be
Establish at least a weekly routine so that pup comes to expect grooming at a certain time.
Place him on an elevated, non-skid surface and be sure to keep your hand on him at all times. If you have to
walk away put him on the floor.
Have all your grooming tools at hands reach so the pup is not left unattended
End each grooming session with a soothing massage and a treat.
What grooming tools are needed?
Schnauzers will likely need more grooming if you plan to keep the hair on the skirt and legs long. If your dog is
outside getting down and dirty he will likely need more frequent care, from three to four times a week. Tools to
a gentle wire-slicker brush or a pin brush with long, natural bristles
a metal comb to remove tangles
a table with non-skid surface
dog nail clippers
toothbrush and toothpaste for dogs
Gentle dog shampoo
Canine blow dryer.
Remember: if it hurts your hair to pull knots, it will hurt your schnauzer, too.
How do I trim his nails?
Nail trimming usually involves much protest by the dog, but with care and early training, the tasks can be
accomplished without trauma. A dog’s nails should be trimmed to clear the floor. If you hear them clicking, they
are probably too long.
Pick up one paw and firmly but gently place your thumb on the pad of the toe, and your forefinger on top of the
toe on the skin above the nail. Push your thumb slightly up and backward on the pad while pushing your
forefinger forward. This extends the nail. Don’t squeeze the paw.
Using your other hand, clip the tip only, straight across.
Avoid clipping past the curve of the nail, or risk hitting what is called the quick. A nick there is painful and will
bleed. It’s hard to see the quick on dark nails, so clip only the hook like part of the nail that turns down
Examine the paw pads for foreign objects or injuries. If you live where winter involves ice and snow, remove any
salt, snow or ice which can injure the feet and make the dog sick if he licks his paws.
When does my puppy need his shots?
Below is a rough time line of the veterinarian office visits to be made during the first year of life.
Within three days of birth (optional): remove dew claws and dock tails
6-12 weeks (optional) : early spay or neuter (consult your veterinarian about the best time to do this)
8 weeks: full physical exam, blood work, distemper/corona vaccine, intestinal parasites screen, heart worm
8-16 weeks (optional): crop ears, if desired; timing depends on breed and dog
12 weeks: distemper/corona vaccine, bordetella vaccine, intestinal parasite screen, heart worm preventative,
possibly Lyme disease vaccine for dogs at risk
16 weeks: distemper vaccine, internal bronchine vaccine, one year rabies vaccine, intestinal parasite screen,
heart worm preventative
6 months: dental health, adolescence sexual maturation check
5-9 months: Spay females before their first “heat” often at 6 months, neuter males between 6 and 12 months of
12-18 months: full physical exam
Every 12-18 months thereafter: full physical exam and re-vaccination as required
How do I know if my puppy is ill?
Call your vet within 24 hours if you notice any of the following symptoms.
sudden listlessness, loss of interest in favorite activities
uncharacteristic house soiling
disinterest in food for more than 8 hours
continued weight loss
lack of bowel movement for 48 hours
worms visible in stool
increase in thirst and urination
blood in urine
eye held closed or squinting
swelling of lids or surrounding tissue
sudden, profuse tearing or discharge
redness in white of eye
drainage or foul odor
swelling of ear flap
hearing impairment)does not readily respond to name, commands)
pawing at mouth
persistent coughing or wheezing
skin that is inflamed or oozing
areas of hair loss
a sore that won’t heal
a lump that wasn’t there before
Emergency Care Needed: Call your vet immediately
trauma to head or body
deep bite or puncture wound
cut or wound that won’t stop bleeding
direct injury to eye
swallowing or sharp object of poisonous material
extreme listlessness or change of usual demeanor
very rapid, shallow panting
collapse, or loss of consciousness
sudden swelling of abdomen
pale, purple. Or grayish gums
pawing at the mouth or gagging
sudden swelling of face or throat
holding up a limb
signs of significant pain: hunched or stiff-legged posture; reluctance to move; shaking; continued panting
whining or crying
signs of overheating: rapid heavy breathing; loss of coordination; fainting, vomiting
signs of dehydration: sunken eyes; thick saliva; dry gums; loss of skin elasticity
signs of esophageal obstruction: profuse drooling; posture with head and neck forward; inability to eat or drink
signs of respiratory obstruction: inability to inhale; stiff stance with legs apart and head outstretched; pale or
body temperature 103 Fahrenheit or above